Care and Feeding of Redworms/Nightcrawlers
Nightcrawlers and Red worms are cared for in much the same way. Use whatever container you
might have available, or possibly build a box of untreated wood. Something between a five gallon
to two bushel in size will work fine. In order to maintain good drainage, drill the bottom of the
container with a 3/16 bit in several places. To prevent the worms from crawling out of those same
holes, line the container with a weed block, fiberglass screen, or even newspaper.
For the compost,use a 50/50 mixture consisting of Canadian Peat Moss and Rabbit or Cow
Manure. For the European Nightcrawlers compost use a 75/25 mixture consisting of Canadian
Peat Moss and Rabbit or Cow Manure. It is strongly suggested that you use only commercially
processed manure to avoid problems with pH or parasites. This type of manure is available in most
garden shops. To mix the compost, thoroughly combine the manure and the peat moss with just
enough water so that when a handfull is squeezed, a few drops of water will be pressed out. Never
use water that is over 80 degrees F. in temperature to mix with.
Now that you have your containers set and your compost mixed and ready, you need to divide the
worms into several containers to avoid crowding and encourage healthy growth. Try to limit the
worms to 1/2 pound or 500 worms or less to a container, depending on the containers size. Dig
out a hole in the center of each container to be used and divide the worms up into each one. Then
cover the worms with compost, and cover the top with newspaper.Leave the new arrivals alone for
a day or two so they can settle in to their new quarters. Lightly water the surface of the bedding
and feed lightly after the second day. Feed only what the worms will consume in a day, two days at
most to avoid mold. We feed a combination of ground corn, corn meal, and the well known Purina
Worm Chow. Again, feed only what they will consume in that 1 to 2 day range. Always replace the
cover after feedings to prevent excessive drying of the beds.
Most important of all!~ Leave a light on over the beds until the worms become established. Other
wise the worms will crawl out!
How to Make and Maintain a Worm Bin
Red worms can survive a wide range of temperatures except freezing and temps above 82
degrees. RED WORMS are at their most productive when the worm bin is at 55 to 77 degrees
Fahrenheit.
Worms need to breathe so make sure you have plenty of air holes. Especially if you are using a
rubber maid container for a bin.
Red worms need moisture but not to much. You should be able to squeeze a couple of drops from
the bedding but not a stream
Here's a list of what you'll need: 2 pieces 5/8" CDX plywood (35-5/8" x 12") *CDX is a special type
of wood, ask your parents 2 pieces 5/8" CDX plywood (23-3/8" x 12") 1 piece 5/8" CDX plywood
(24" x 36") 38 2" ardox nails, hammer, drill with 1/2" bit
Nail the sides together with four to six nails per side, and then nail the bottom panel on using five
to seven nails per side. Then get out the drill and make 12 half-inch holes in the bottom. That's so
that air can get in and water can get out. You'll also have to raise the bin off the floor so that air
can circulate up through them.
BEDDING:
Bedding can be shredded cardboard or newspapers and old leaves. We use peat moss or leaves.
Fill your bin to the top with the bedding. Add some dirt. Like chickens, worms have gizzards that
help them grind up all that organic matter you are feeding them. Only use a couple of hands full
of dirt.
The basic formula for the amount of worms you will need for your bin is two pounds of worms for
every one pound of organic waste per week. (a 2:1 ratio). It takes about 1,000-1,500 worms to
make a pound.
Care and Feeding of Mealworms
Get a small plastic tub for a container. Inexpensive clear containers with vented snap on lids are
available at pet stores.
Place 1-2 inches of substrate (which mealworms will eat) in bottom. Use bran, oats or a mixture of
the two.
Place 1/2 a potato on substrate or in a small dish (supplies moisture and food).
Get around 2 dozen mealworms from the pet store.
Place mealworms in container, which should be kept relatively warm.
Replace potato every couple of days (do not let it get moldy).
The mealworms are the larval stage; within 3 weeks they should pupate, then in another two
weeks beetles should emerge.
The beetles will lay eggs, which are minuscule and very difficult to see. When these hatch, the
larvae are also very small.
The beetles will die, while the larvae will grow and repeat the cycle.
After one life cycle the colony should be well established and you can start using them for
treats/food.
Do not allow mold to grow on the food or substrate.
Add bran/oats as necessary to maintain the substrate level. Start with fresh substrate occasionally
(especially if mold or damp conditions develop).
If you have too many mealworms, place the whole container in the fridge, as this will stop their
development.
Simply rewarm to room temperature when ready, and the colony will resume development.
Do not change the substrate until the colony is well-established, as eggs and tiny larvae will be
lost and the cycle interrupted.
Once you have lots of mealworms, it is fine to completely clean out the substrate - filter out the
mealworms, discard the substrate, and start over.
Care and Feeding of Crickets
Crickets make excellent fish bait during the hot weather of summer. Fishermen know the value of
crickets as bait. Small fish called "pan fish" found in lakes, ponds and streams are often easily
caught. Bass, pickerel and trout often feed on crickets when other lures fail to attract these fish.
When baiting the hook, fasten the cricket to the hook with a small rubberband for best results.
Kinds of Crickets: Field cricket adults are dark brown, gray or black with a robust body about 3/4
to 1 inch long. House cricket adults are light yellow-brown or straw-colored and about 3/4 inch long.
Obtaining Crickets: Field crickets can be trapped alive by cutting a push-in type door in the end of
a shoe box. Place the box in a grassy area at night baited with bread or raw vegetable slices.
Crickets will enter the box and not get out. An unsliced bread loaf cut in half with the inside
scooped out hollow is effective bait. Use string to tie the two halves together after making a 1-1/2
inch hole in one end. Place this loaf in the grass during the evening; the next morning, shake
crickets into a jar or box.
House crickets can be obtained from someone with a colony, biological supply houses or fish bait
dealers.
Cages: Use wide-mouth glass jars, plastic containers or five-gallon cans. Treat the smooth inner
surface with mineral oil, vegetable shortening, vaseline, varnish and furniture polish or floor wax.
Cover with wire screen or muslin. A simple wooden frame may be built and covered with ordinary
window screening about three feet square and two feet high. Use galvanized sheet metal for the
box bottom, extending eight inches up all four sides to prevent spiders and ants from entering the
box. Crickets are natural food for spiders, ants, centipedes, lizards, etc.
Cage Preparation: Place four inches of clean, dust free, damp sand (good brick sand) in the cage
bottom. Cover sand with six inches of coarse wood shavings to protect small crickets from being
eaten by adults. Some use a small plastic container of moist sand placed on top of dry sand in the
cage for an egg-laying site.
Biology: Begin with about a dozen pair of male and female crickets. Female crickets have an
egg-laying tube extending from their rear end that is inserted in the soil for egg-laying. Many begin
cultures in late spring as temperatures must be 80 to 90°F for breeding. Some people use artificial
heat from a light bulb suspended in the breeding cage. Cover with cellotex to keep the heat in.
Each female will lay between 50 to 100 eggs that hatch in about two to three weeks. (Be sure to
keep the sand damp at all times with a fine mist garden hose nozzle.) Newly hatched young are the
same size as the eggs, and blend in with their surroundings. Remove adult crickets to prevent
young from being eaten (cannibalism). Also, it is normal for some adults to die naturally after
mating. The remaining eggs will continue to hatch for 10 to 15 days.
Feeding: Crickets are easy to raise. House crickets eat most edible foods such as stale bread,
poultry mash, cornmeal, powdered dog food, etc. Slices of apple, banana or pieces of lettuce or
cabbage are a treat. Place food in a shallow container, discarding unused portions for cleanliness
and freedom from mold. A feeder can be any open vessel pressed into the sand. Dog food
provides a simple, well-balanced diet sufficient in protein, and also poultry laying mash. A water
supply is very important. Place cotton or similar material in the water container to keep small
nymphs from drowning. (Cotton will "wick" water from a small bottle by capillary action.) Bury the
bottle in the sand with the wick out to keep smaller crickets from falling in and drowning.)
Other Factors: Provide resting or hiding places using paper containers with punched holes,
excelsior or folded corrugated cardboard. Crickets need warm temperatures of at least 80°F.
Nymphs held at 80°F require up to 60 to 65 days to mature, while those held at 90°F require only
30 to 35 days to complete development. Purchase a cheap thermostat and heater such as used
for small chick brooders. Keep the cricket container in subdued light since, in nature, crickets are
most active at night. Artificial light is acceptable, but direct sunlight should be avoided.
Care and Feeding of Minnows
Minnows and other baitfish probably require the most attention for proper storage with minimal
loss. The three main factors which contribute to baitfish loss are lack of oxygen,improper water
temperature,and lack of cleanliness. Use a good quality air pump. Water temperature of 55
degrees or less is reccommened. Feed Minnow feed sparingly.
Buy Bait and Supplies at: Worm Mans Bait Farm.
Copyright© 2006 BobberStop.com
Nightcrawlers and Red worms are cared for in much the same way. Use whatever container you
might have available, or possibly build a box of untreated wood. Something between a five gallon
to two bushel in size will work fine. In order to maintain good drainage, drill the bottom of the
container with a 3/16 bit in several places. To prevent the worms from crawling out of those same
holes, line the container with a weed block, fiberglass screen, or even newspaper.
For the compost,use a 50/50 mixture consisting of Canadian Peat Moss and Rabbit or Cow
Manure. For the European Nightcrawlers compost use a 75/25 mixture consisting of Canadian
Peat Moss and Rabbit or Cow Manure. It is strongly suggested that you use only commercially
processed manure to avoid problems with pH or parasites. This type of manure is available in most
garden shops. To mix the compost, thoroughly combine the manure and the peat moss with just
enough water so that when a handfull is squeezed, a few drops of water will be pressed out. Never
use water that is over 80 degrees F. in temperature to mix with.
Now that you have your containers set and your compost mixed and ready, you need to divide the
worms into several containers to avoid crowding and encourage healthy growth. Try to limit the
worms to 1/2 pound or 500 worms or less to a container, depending on the containers size. Dig
out a hole in the center of each container to be used and divide the worms up into each one. Then
cover the worms with compost, and cover the top with newspaper.Leave the new arrivals alone for
a day or two so they can settle in to their new quarters. Lightly water the surface of the bedding
and feed lightly after the second day. Feed only what the worms will consume in a day, two days at
most to avoid mold. We feed a combination of ground corn, corn meal, and the well known Purina
Worm Chow. Again, feed only what they will consume in that 1 to 2 day range. Always replace the
cover after feedings to prevent excessive drying of the beds.
Most important of all!~ Leave a light on over the beds until the worms become established. Other
wise the worms will crawl out!
How to Make and Maintain a Worm Bin
Red worms can survive a wide range of temperatures except freezing and temps above 82
degrees. RED WORMS are at their most productive when the worm bin is at 55 to 77 degrees
Fahrenheit.
Worms need to breathe so make sure you have plenty of air holes. Especially if you are using a
rubber maid container for a bin.
Red worms need moisture but not to much. You should be able to squeeze a couple of drops from
the bedding but not a stream
Here's a list of what you'll need: 2 pieces 5/8" CDX plywood (35-5/8" x 12") *CDX is a special type
of wood, ask your parents 2 pieces 5/8" CDX plywood (23-3/8" x 12") 1 piece 5/8" CDX plywood
(24" x 36") 38 2" ardox nails, hammer, drill with 1/2" bit
Nail the sides together with four to six nails per side, and then nail the bottom panel on using five
to seven nails per side. Then get out the drill and make 12 half-inch holes in the bottom. That's so
that air can get in and water can get out. You'll also have to raise the bin off the floor so that air
can circulate up through them.
BEDDING:
Bedding can be shredded cardboard or newspapers and old leaves. We use peat moss or leaves.
Fill your bin to the top with the bedding. Add some dirt. Like chickens, worms have gizzards that
help them grind up all that organic matter you are feeding them. Only use a couple of hands full
of dirt.
The basic formula for the amount of worms you will need for your bin is two pounds of worms for
every one pound of organic waste per week. (a 2:1 ratio). It takes about 1,000-1,500 worms to
make a pound.
Care and Feeding of Mealworms
Get a small plastic tub for a container. Inexpensive clear containers with vented snap on lids are
available at pet stores.
Place 1-2 inches of substrate (which mealworms will eat) in bottom. Use bran, oats or a mixture of
the two.
Place 1/2 a potato on substrate or in a small dish (supplies moisture and food).
Get around 2 dozen mealworms from the pet store.
Place mealworms in container, which should be kept relatively warm.
Replace potato every couple of days (do not let it get moldy).
The mealworms are the larval stage; within 3 weeks they should pupate, then in another two
weeks beetles should emerge.
The beetles will lay eggs, which are minuscule and very difficult to see. When these hatch, the
larvae are also very small.
The beetles will die, while the larvae will grow and repeat the cycle.
After one life cycle the colony should be well established and you can start using them for
treats/food.
Do not allow mold to grow on the food or substrate.
Add bran/oats as necessary to maintain the substrate level. Start with fresh substrate occasionally
(especially if mold or damp conditions develop).
If you have too many mealworms, place the whole container in the fridge, as this will stop their
development.
Simply rewarm to room temperature when ready, and the colony will resume development.
Do not change the substrate until the colony is well-established, as eggs and tiny larvae will be
lost and the cycle interrupted.
Once you have lots of mealworms, it is fine to completely clean out the substrate - filter out the
mealworms, discard the substrate, and start over.
Care and Feeding of Crickets
Crickets make excellent fish bait during the hot weather of summer. Fishermen know the value of
crickets as bait. Small fish called "pan fish" found in lakes, ponds and streams are often easily
caught. Bass, pickerel and trout often feed on crickets when other lures fail to attract these fish.
When baiting the hook, fasten the cricket to the hook with a small rubberband for best results.
Kinds of Crickets: Field cricket adults are dark brown, gray or black with a robust body about 3/4
to 1 inch long. House cricket adults are light yellow-brown or straw-colored and about 3/4 inch long.
Obtaining Crickets: Field crickets can be trapped alive by cutting a push-in type door in the end of
a shoe box. Place the box in a grassy area at night baited with bread or raw vegetable slices.
Crickets will enter the box and not get out. An unsliced bread loaf cut in half with the inside
scooped out hollow is effective bait. Use string to tie the two halves together after making a 1-1/2
inch hole in one end. Place this loaf in the grass during the evening; the next morning, shake
crickets into a jar or box.
House crickets can be obtained from someone with a colony, biological supply houses or fish bait
dealers.
Cages: Use wide-mouth glass jars, plastic containers or five-gallon cans. Treat the smooth inner
surface with mineral oil, vegetable shortening, vaseline, varnish and furniture polish or floor wax.
Cover with wire screen or muslin. A simple wooden frame may be built and covered with ordinary
window screening about three feet square and two feet high. Use galvanized sheet metal for the
box bottom, extending eight inches up all four sides to prevent spiders and ants from entering the
box. Crickets are natural food for spiders, ants, centipedes, lizards, etc.
Cage Preparation: Place four inches of clean, dust free, damp sand (good brick sand) in the cage
bottom. Cover sand with six inches of coarse wood shavings to protect small crickets from being
eaten by adults. Some use a small plastic container of moist sand placed on top of dry sand in the
cage for an egg-laying site.
Biology: Begin with about a dozen pair of male and female crickets. Female crickets have an
egg-laying tube extending from their rear end that is inserted in the soil for egg-laying. Many begin
cultures in late spring as temperatures must be 80 to 90°F for breeding. Some people use artificial
heat from a light bulb suspended in the breeding cage. Cover with cellotex to keep the heat in.
Each female will lay between 50 to 100 eggs that hatch in about two to three weeks. (Be sure to
keep the sand damp at all times with a fine mist garden hose nozzle.) Newly hatched young are the
same size as the eggs, and blend in with their surroundings. Remove adult crickets to prevent
young from being eaten (cannibalism). Also, it is normal for some adults to die naturally after
mating. The remaining eggs will continue to hatch for 10 to 15 days.
Feeding: Crickets are easy to raise. House crickets eat most edible foods such as stale bread,
poultry mash, cornmeal, powdered dog food, etc. Slices of apple, banana or pieces of lettuce or
cabbage are a treat. Place food in a shallow container, discarding unused portions for cleanliness
and freedom from mold. A feeder can be any open vessel pressed into the sand. Dog food
provides a simple, well-balanced diet sufficient in protein, and also poultry laying mash. A water
supply is very important. Place cotton or similar material in the water container to keep small
nymphs from drowning. (Cotton will "wick" water from a small bottle by capillary action.) Bury the
bottle in the sand with the wick out to keep smaller crickets from falling in and drowning.)
Other Factors: Provide resting or hiding places using paper containers with punched holes,
excelsior or folded corrugated cardboard. Crickets need warm temperatures of at least 80°F.
Nymphs held at 80°F require up to 60 to 65 days to mature, while those held at 90°F require only
30 to 35 days to complete development. Purchase a cheap thermostat and heater such as used
for small chick brooders. Keep the cricket container in subdued light since, in nature, crickets are
most active at night. Artificial light is acceptable, but direct sunlight should be avoided.
Care and Feeding of Minnows
Minnows and other baitfish probably require the most attention for proper storage with minimal
loss. The three main factors which contribute to baitfish loss are lack of oxygen,improper water
temperature,and lack of cleanliness. Use a good quality air pump. Water temperature of 55
degrees or less is reccommened. Feed Minnow feed sparingly.
Buy Bait and Supplies at: Worm Mans Bait Farm.
Copyright© 2006 BobberStop.com
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